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Sunday, April 09, 2006

a fairly uninventful weekend. but the surf was huge.

took the kids to the beach for a squiz on sunday morning. it was huge. my youngest says, oh, i went out once when i was like that.

bullshit i sez

so i took them to another beach, where the surf breaks a bit closer to the shore.

"oh" he sez. "count me out" or something like that.

then i take them to a place called backdoor (cause when you get a tube ride, you start behind the curl, and ride through from the back to the front, whatever else you were thinking, that ain't it). at this place you are right on top of the break. it's maybe a 3-4 metre wave. the face of the wave is well over 6 metres, maybe 7. a really good professional surfer could surf it, well even a good amateur surfer could surf it, but you'd need a helicopter to drop you out there.

i went out once when it was about 2 metres. one of my mates paddled past.

"what the fuck are you doing out here?" he sez

"trying to work out how to get back in!" i sez

Triga was sitting on the beach with a broken leg rope.

next day it dropped to about 5 foot. overhead faces, but within my comfort zone. groovy baby.

when it was 6 foot/2 metres, and i was sitting out there, and the swells were rolling in, i was shitting myself. sure it wasn't like Dirk's bull running at him. less spiky, agressive, and if it was me, less undies-need-changing but it was pretty scarey non-the-less.

Huey spun us up a whole bunch of cool surf, and i love it.

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