Monday, January 17, 2005

big fat glassy surf. just lightly brushed by the southerly breeze (offshore). fatter and fatter as the tide came in until only the shoredump was breaking.

very confidence boosting for an unco father trying not to drown his son whilst going for a bit of a male bonding surf :-)

i love surfing... hardest fucking sport i've ever attempted. so you can count out skydiving, any kind of high diving, the jamaican (or oztralian) bobsled team (apparently someone has been inspired by the movie "cool runnings" and has a team for the winter olympics. rather than what i do, which is watch the movie repeatedly and get pissed a lot...) and that downhill as-fast-as-you-can-go skiing bizzo.

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