Tuesday, September 14, 2004
I stand and watch the beach,
the slow, booming surf,
a man walks out the ramp,
we greet as he passes,
balancing his malibu on his head,
he stands and considers.
I stand and watch the surf,
breaking slowly and magically,
it seems so small,
yet beckons so strong,
come to me it says, relentlessly.
I sit and watch the surf,
astride my surfboard waiting,
the sets come in,
they pass me by,
glassy and with power.
The rain pocks the glassy surface,
quietly hissing between the sets,
the grey skies,
the slight offshore breeze,
the spray hitting the surface,
behind the passing wave.
I stand and watch the surf,
the long left hand break,
trying to stay with the wave,
my surfboard at my feet.
I fumble and I fall,
yet the smooth surf carries on,
slowly, effortlessly,
no fuss and no pause.
I stand and watch the surf.
the slow, booming surf,
a man walks out the ramp,
we greet as he passes,
balancing his malibu on his head,
he stands and considers.
I stand and watch the surf,
breaking slowly and magically,
it seems so small,
yet beckons so strong,
come to me it says, relentlessly.
I sit and watch the surf,
astride my surfboard waiting,
the sets come in,
they pass me by,
glassy and with power.
The rain pocks the glassy surface,
quietly hissing between the sets,
the grey skies,
the slight offshore breeze,
the spray hitting the surface,
behind the passing wave.
I stand and watch the surf,
the long left hand break,
trying to stay with the wave,
my surfboard at my feet.
I fumble and I fall,
yet the smooth surf carries on,
slowly, effortlessly,
no fuss and no pause.
I stand and watch the surf.
