Friday, April 16, 2004


goddamn! i'm having fun. i'm going to surf all winter this year, for the first time in about 10 years. i'm on a rush, a high, dunno how to describe it. and i don't want it to end. sure there's little self doubts, moments of self pity (ok hours and hours, fuck it) but today has lifted that shit all away.

ok, got up late. kids got up even later. finally got ourselves to the beach at 11:00. and the nor-easter is up, but it's side-shore, so we're paddling into it all the time so we don't get blown down the beach. grot L doesn't want to play today, so grot D and me are out there. it's small, only just big enough to actually catch, especially as i've only gotta smallboard. next board could well be a mini-mal. but i don't want to admit to growing old!

got a little left, and the grot drops in on me, ok, that's ok, as long as he doesn't do it to anyone else. got a cool little left, then a few rights. ok, time to go in, and me and the grot catch the last wave in together. (paddle paddle you little shit!) how cool is that?! it doesn't get much better than that. catching a wave in with one of the kids. i've got a warm fuzzy feeling (as my dad would say) from that.

soccer training tonight, i survived (got there late because the ex turned up late to get the kids. i don't care, i have to take it easy for friday soccer training otherwise i'll be stuffed for saturday games) . our first game tomorrow is going to be another matter. fortunately afterwards we have a therapeutic, relaxing, barbeque down the pub hehehehe

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