Wednesday, March 24, 2004

surfing cures everything

probably 4 foot swell, and seeing as it was breaking in the protected northern end of the beach, it was a bit bigger than that. lovely lumps breaking over the bommies on the horizon. cyclone grace, bring it on. (except for this weekend cause i'm on the diveboat doh!)

Jonah has it on good advice that it's 10 foot up his way. couple of cool places down here if it gets that big, only i think you would need a helicopter to drop you into a few of them! ok for kelly slater though, getting a tow in with a jet ski up there at kirra. but then, even though he's a yank, he's a frikken good surfer, so mere mortals like me will just watch in awe. i liked the swellnet picture though. it looks so little from the shore hehehehe where is miami anyway? i thought that was in the usa? must be a goldcoast thingy.

got out with grot no 2 for a paddle anyway. being the paranoid parent i am i was a bit nervous, but even in dredging 4 foot surf, they were well spaced and i could keep an eye on him. caught a few nice little waves, and got myself hammered a coupla times as well. a few new dings in the board from my body and my head. doh! love those smooth 6 foot drops though :-)

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