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Wednesday, January 28, 2004

a perfect afternoon. the waves weren't perfectly glassy, but lightly airbrushed by the nor-easter, and every now and then beautiful little 4 footers came in to see if we were awake and had drifted in closer to take the many smaller but rideable waves that were available.

if there is one thing i hate, it's surfing with a watch, having to leave to be somewhere at a particular time. usually i just surf until i'm worn out (might as well leave the damn watch behind anyway, i don't last that long). its better to just paddle out and forget it all. listen to the sound of the rain on the water. sometimes it sounds like a hiss, today it sounded like a little stream gurgling down a rocky .... um.... stream thingy. although it was hard to hear, the clouds above and around were clearing their throats with interesting grunts and groans, and the occasional echoing retort from the lightning.

sitting out the back as a storm came overhead. lightning hitting the shore to the south, the headland to the north, and out to sea. i hope i don't end up fried like that poor lad on the weekend. but why worry, i'm more likely to die on the fucking roads than in the water. the amount of stupid lunatics on the roads at the moment just has to be seen to be believed.

frikken fish worshippers!!!



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