Wednesday, January 28, 2004
a perfect afternoon. the waves weren't perfectly glassy, but lightly airbrushed by the nor-easter, and every now and then beautiful little 4 footers came in to see if we were awake and had drifted in closer to take the many smaller but rideable waves that were available.
if there is one thing i hate, it's surfing with a watch, having to leave to be somewhere at a particular time. usually i just surf until i'm worn out (might as well leave the damn watch behind anyway, i don't last that long). its better to just paddle out and forget it all. listen to the sound of the rain on the water. sometimes it sounds like a hiss, today it sounded like a little stream gurgling down a rocky .... um.... stream thingy. although it was hard to hear, the clouds above and around were clearing their throats with interesting grunts and groans, and the occasional echoing retort from the lightning.
sitting out the back as a storm came overhead. lightning hitting the shore to the south, the headland to the north, and out to sea. i hope i don't end up fried like that poor lad on the weekend. but why worry, i'm more likely to die on the fucking roads than in the water. the amount of stupid lunatics on the roads at the moment just has to be seen to be believed.
frikken fish worshippers!!!
if there is one thing i hate, it's surfing with a watch, having to leave to be somewhere at a particular time. usually i just surf until i'm worn out (might as well leave the damn watch behind anyway, i don't last that long). its better to just paddle out and forget it all. listen to the sound of the rain on the water. sometimes it sounds like a hiss, today it sounded like a little stream gurgling down a rocky .... um.... stream thingy. although it was hard to hear, the clouds above and around were clearing their throats with interesting grunts and groans, and the occasional echoing retort from the lightning.
sitting out the back as a storm came overhead. lightning hitting the shore to the south, the headland to the north, and out to sea. i hope i don't end up fried like that poor lad on the weekend. but why worry, i'm more likely to die on the fucking roads than in the water. the amount of stupid lunatics on the roads at the moment just has to be seen to be believed.
frikken fish worshippers!!!
Tuesday, January 27, 2004
why must life have balance? why can't it be good all the time? i just had a fan-frikken-tastic weekend. on a boat all weekend, diving in beautiful clear water, wreck diving (my favourite), partying late and generally having a good time. sunday night was one of the coolest electrical storms, hailstones the size of golf balls and bigger banging on the roof, lightning flashes like some mad disco, every 15-20 seconds at least. strangely i didn't feel the need to go outside and risk being knocked out to experience it personally!!!!
only i've managed to screw up my wrist, i think it's getting better, hopefully in a day or so i will be back to normal, but in the meantime my left hand is next to useless. and when i got back from a long weekend (Australia day weekend - yay!) i find that during one of the electrical storms on the weekend, a young guy (ok he's 34 but that's younger) was hit by lightning and killed while playing cricket.
i've been to enough funerals over the past 5-10 years to realise any of us could go at any time. take each day as it comes and enjoy it as much as you can. good advice, tell me if you manage to make it work, i'm still working on it. fuck balance, i just want to have fun and enjoy my life. don't even start me on girls!
only i've managed to screw up my wrist, i think it's getting better, hopefully in a day or so i will be back to normal, but in the meantime my left hand is next to useless. and when i got back from a long weekend (Australia day weekend - yay!) i find that during one of the electrical storms on the weekend, a young guy (ok he's 34 but that's younger) was hit by lightning and killed while playing cricket.
i've been to enough funerals over the past 5-10 years to realise any of us could go at any time. take each day as it comes and enjoy it as much as you can. good advice, tell me if you manage to make it work, i'm still working on it. fuck balance, i just want to have fun and enjoy my life. don't even start me on girls!
